![]() Keep in mind that these batteries can only be charged so many times before they no longer perform at an optimal level. That's not the case with the Emove electric scooter - it just keeps going even with heavy rider weight. I'm a heavy guy and I'm also heavy on the throttle, but I've learned to ease off of it if I want to make it home. One of my first times riding this e-scooter I kept looking at the battery indicator expecting it to move it didn't move an inch for miles. The Emove Cruiser makes this abundantly clear. Then do 10 more.Not all scooters are created equal. Repeat bleeding until you do 5 in-and-out strokes with no bubbles. Leave with rubber lines still submerged in brake fluid for 10mins (go bleed the BMC to HMC feed line) Keep going until you do 5 in-and-out strokes with no bubbles. There will be a lot of air at the start as the rubber lines expel their air Place both hands on screw driver and slowly work in and out Screw the handbrake handle fitting onto the plunger and slide a screwdriver through the holes (may be different for non PSM handbrakes) This is to ensure any mildly aerated fluid (which floats to the top) is not sucked into the MC Put both ends of the lines in the water bottle but ensure they are at least 20mm from the surface. Put rubber lines on the fittings, clamp them up tight Cut the top off an empty clear water bottle Put the master cylinder in a vice, ensure it is level But as both ports draw and feed on either the inward or outward stroke using a clear jar as a reservoir means it can still be done. Traditional bench bleeding doesn’t really work due to the lack of a reservoir. The amount of fluid the system can move can be extreme.īench bleeding a Handbrake Master Cylinder: Forcing fluid into the HMC will push air out of the MC better than the plunger drawing in fresh fluid. After tightening up the bleed screw after bleeding a calliper, do not pull the handbrake back up, pump it up using the footbrake. If you have some resistance then they are plumbed correctly and just require more bleeding. If the HMC goes straight to the bottom you either have lots of air in the lines (unlikely) or the lines are around the wrong way (assuming you have the cap off the BMC reservoir). This will help any air trapped in the HMC to be pushed out. Once you’ve bled both rear callipers, bleed both using the handbrake. Start bleeding the full system on the foot brake and do not touch the handbrake. ![]() Once all lines and the HMC are connected, bleed the output line from the HMC to the factory rear brake line using only the foot brake. Ensure the end of the line is submerged in some brake fluid to avoid it sucking air back in as the pedal comes up. Foot bleed the HMC feed line (from the BMC) into a jar in the car before fitting it to the HMC. If during the bench bleeding you see fluid seeping from a fitting, or can hear bubbles entering, then tighten fitting gradually. Do not overtighten fittings – remember the threads are small and not very long. You can detect leaks easily during this process as you will hear them. Ensure all your HMC fittings are attached (adaptors, 90degrees, etc) and that the bleeding hoses are secured tightly on the fittings via clamps. Rekit your rear callipers if you can – fresh seals will give the pistons the best chance of moving freely Here are some hard and fast truths if your handbrake does not lock the rear wheels. I’ve seen some of the advice given online and a lot of it is bogus. I went with a full PSM kit hoping to avoid some of the other issues but the bleeding has been horrendous. In order to help others I’ve decided to post up my learnings. Bleeding a hydraulic handbrake can either be painless, or a source of never ending problems.
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